The State Forest Management Center (referred to as Riigimetsa Majandamise Keskus or simply RMK) maintains hiking trails, campsites, and recreational areas throughout Estonia. In addition to its broader mission of protecting Estonia’s forests and unique ecosystems, RMK has created three major long distance hiking trails that traverse the entire country. In spring 2024, I thru-hiked one of them – the Oandu-Aegviidu-Ikla Trail – which spans 230 miles (370 km) from the Gulf of Finland to the Estonia-Latvia border.
The following log entries are adapted from notes I took during my thru-hike . Each entry is titled and features both photographs and modest musings about trail life. Given the many joys I experienced while solo hiking through snow-covered bogs in freezing conditions, I am sorry to say that my musings are brief and without insight.
DAY 1: April 20, 2024 [9 km]
Route: Northern terminus in Oandu, Lahemaa National Park, to the campsite at Võsu…
Trail Notes: Reaching the RMK Oandu Visitor Center proved to be its own adventure. After taking the train to Rakvere, I walked along the road for 30 km to reach the northern terminus. The beautiful spring weather of yesteryear (~2 days ago) has unfortunately given way to a country-wide blizzard…
DAY 2: April 21, 2024 [42 km]
Route: Campsite at Võsu to Järvi Pikkjärve
Trail Notes: Walking along boards in bogs and enjoying the solitude offered by the Estonian forest…
DAY 3: April 22, 2024 [42 km]
Route: Campsite at Järvi Pikkjärve to Kalajärve
Trail Notes: Passed through the RMK Aegviidu Visitor Center in the midst of heavy snowfall. Good thing I left my dreams of a spring hike at the apartment. The hope would have been too much to carry along with my a six day supply of food and water…
DAY 4: April 23, 2024 [47 km]
Route: Campsite at Kalajärve to Hirvelaane
Trail Notes: Several inches of snow on the tent this morning and along the bog boards. A slow trek through a frozen landscape…
DAY 5: April 24, 2024 [54.5 km]
Route: Campsite at Hirvelaane to Mukri
Trail Notes: Battered…
DAY 6: April 25, 2024 [35.1 km]
Route: Campsite at Mukri to Luite
Trail Notes: Entering Soomaa National Park and the last of the snow…
DAY 7: April 26, 2024 [41.5 km]
Route: Campsite at Luite to Läti
Trail Notes: The trail became a straight road that continues into infinity…
DAY 8: April 27, 2024 [39 km]
Route: Campsite at Läti to Kilingi-Nõmme
Trail Notes: Infinity continues as supplies run low…
DAY 9: April 28, 2024 [45.5 km]
Route: Campsite at Kilingi-Nõmme to RMK Kabli Visitor Center
Trail Notes: I stood outside my tent, looking through the trees at what appeared to be a fiery sunset over the Gulf of Riga. I can only assume it was beautiful, because as I tried to walk towards the clearing 400 meters away, my body collapsed. Fatigued, blistered, hungry, and alone, I could not take another step. Maybe it was a different kind of beauty – one that comes from testing the limits of your body, mind, and soles. The distant reds soon faded to black.
DAY 10: April 29, 2024 [17.5 km]
Route: RMK Kabli Visitor Center to Ikla along the Estonia-Latvia border
Hiker Log at RMK Kabli Visitor Center: “It is with great relief that I woke up this morning to a beautiful spring morning at the center. After 10 days and 350 km of backpacking through Estonia, I am looking forward to a much needed rest. Snow, freezing temperatures, heavy pack, long dirt roads – a good trip but a reminder that next time I hike in Estonia, it will be in June! ~ Webster”
POST-TRAIL REFLECTION
Perhaps my greatest test of endurance, perseverance, and grit. From freezing conditions in snowy bogs to never-ending dirt roads, I have come to understand why this trail is often treated as a section hike. I am grateful for the time spent with the Estonian forest. It certainly makes for a complicated companion.
– Webster signing off
